A good pair of binoculars is actually indispensable when you love to enjoy all the beauty of nature outdoors. the purpose of a scope is to bring you closer to the object you want to view. it is important, before you proceed with the purchase, to consider what you intend to use the viewer for. In short, what is your need and which viewer best suits it?
Because there is no viewer suitable for all purposes, there are a huge number of models.
a viewer consists of:
– an objective lens: this is the lens is facing the object, so is not held against the eye.
-an eyepiece: the word eyepiece comes from the principle that this is the lens facing the eye (the oculus). so that part that your eye is against.
Binoculars can be divided into monocular scopes, which allow you to see with only one eye, and binocular models, which are equipped with two prisms.
the group of binocular viewers can be divided into two types of binoculars:
– roof edge viewers
– porro viewers.

the roof edge viewer is slimmer because light is sent through the viewer in a linear fashion.
this makes for a more compact unit, but tends to be slightly more expensive due to the more complex prism system. this model transmits less light using the same lenses.
the porroscope is a wider model because the image is transported through an n-knee.
this has the advantage of less light loss and more depth to the image.
at least in the description of a model there are always 2 numbers, e.g. 8×25.
the first number is the magnification factor so in this case the object is magnified 8x.
if you look at a roe deer 100 meters away with binoculars at magnification 8, the animal appears to be only 12.5 meters away from you. If you use a scope with magnification 10, the deer will be 10 meters away from you. So no big difference.
If you are looking for a good all-round viewer, one with magnification 8 will be enough. the greater the magnification, the more difficult it is to get and/or keep a stable image regardless of the diameter of the lens! a magnification of 10x is well suited for an advanced user. At 12x magnification, a tripod is already recommended.
Which magnification is appropriate for which purpose:
-low magnification (4x-6x), for sporting events, concerts, theater;
-Medium magnification (7x-10x), for universal use, hunting, bird watching;
-high magnification (10x or more), for distant objects, astronomy, aircraft spotting;

the second number refers to the diameter of the lens. the larger the lens, the more light is received. so a larger lens provides a sharper, clearer image with more detail. ideal in situations where lighting conditions are not optimal, such as a dark forest or animal spotting during twilight. the term diameter lenses is also referred to effective aperture of the front lens. the objective diameter, expressed in millimeters, determines the size and weight of your binoculars. if you are looking at a large-diameter scope, it will weigh more and take up more space in your backpack, for example.
Which lens diameter to use for which purpose:
– less than 40mm, for situations with plenty of light
– 40-50mm, for medium light
– over 50mm, for dim light and objects at long distances.
the further the image is magnified, the smaller the field of view becomes. So you only see a very small piece of what is happening in front of you.
Further, a distinction can be made in the quality of the glass from which the lenses are made, with bin 4 being the better kind and bin 7 the slightly inferior kind. However, the difference in quality of the glass can be negated by the coating, which is applied to the lenses (and prisms) on every good scope. this coating is necessary to transport light in the best possible way without causing image or color distortion and to protect the lenses. Of course, there are several options in this – depending on the price level.
a single-layer (fully coated), a multilayer (multi-coated) or multilayer on multiple lenses (fully multi-coated) coating. There is also the phase coating, which is found on some of the more luxurious roof edge viewers. However, this coating is not on the lenses but on the prisms!
the waterproofing of a viewer is also something to think about. some viewers are not waterproof at all, other models are neatly sealed with rubber rings. some of these scopes are also filled with nitrogas (nitrogen) in the process, preventing fogging internally. The advantage of gas-filled is not only the water tightness but also the dust tightness. so gas-filled viewers are
exit pupil
when you view binoculars at arm’s length, a circle can be seen in the eyepiece lenses. This is the exit pupil. The shape of the exit pupil is a good indicator of lens quality. If the shape is prefectly round then you can assume high-quality lenses. The size of the light circle can be calculated by dividing the lens diameter by the magnification.
So for an 8×40 scope, the exit pupil is 5 mm. the higher the number, the more light.
in young people, the pupil of the human eye can open to about 7mm in the dark; in bright light, the pupil closes to about 2mm. As one gets older, the flexibility of the pupil will decrease, so the pupil only opens to about 5mm in the dark.
This shows that purchasing a scope with an exit pupil larger than 8mm does not add value; after all, the human eye cannot exploit the larger spot of light.
adjusting the binoculars properly
– adjusting eye caps: .
Do you wear glasses, or not? binoculars almost always have eye cups that can be turned in and out or folded. these caps ensure that the distance between the eye and the viewer is good. this is important because otherwise you will not have a full picture and will miss the clarity. If you wear glasses, you must turn in or fold in the eye cups. If you are not an eyeglass wearer then they must be turned out, pulled out or -folded.
– set the correct width:
it is important to adjust the width of the viewer (more specifically, the distance between the eyepieces) to the distance between the eyes. this is done by moving both parts of the binoculars closer together or farther apart. look at an object at a great distance and adjust the width of the viewer so that both eyes separately have a full and round image. if all goes well, you will see exactly the same with both eyes.
– diopter setting:
the dioptri setting is to compensate for any deviation between the strength of the eyes.
the setting is usually on the right eyepiece but sometimes behind the central focusing knob and sometimes you can adjust the diopter by pulling out the central focusing knob. proceed as follows: choose an object at a reasonable distance and focus with the central focus above for the left eye (so keep the right eye closed, or better keep the hand in front of the right eyepiece). Then close the left eye or hold the hand in front of the left eyepiece and focus the right eye with the diopter setting.
– focusing the viewer:
all you have to do now is focus on the object you want to see. Do this so that you see sharp immediately. if you are slightly off, the eyes will try to compensate for this and you will still see sharply sometimes, but this is tiring on the eyes.
the waterproofing of a viewer is also something to think about. some viewers are not waterproof at all, other models are neatly sealed with rubber rings. some of these scopes are also filled with nitrogas (nitrogen) in the process, preventing fogging internally. The advantage of gas-filled is not only the water tightness but also the dust tightness. so gas-filled viewers are
Out of all those different models, we have a small selection of viewers that we think will suit the hiker hiking in nature.